I've been on quite the skincare kick lately-- from writing about my own skincare routine to fighting breakouts to facials-- and this post is sort of the culmination of all of that. I promise I'll stop the skincare posts after this- at least not this week haha! I feel a little indulgent talking about my own skincare "philosophy" (if it even is that), but a lot of my friends have been asking if I have any suggestions for dry/normal/combination/sensitive/acne prone/oily skin. So I figured I would address it all in one
giant post. So, voila! Here it is.
A Note on My Skin (aka why I know how to deal with different "types" of skin)
I have super strange skin. It's sensitive not really in terms of having reactions, although I do occasionally get redness/breakouts to strong products, but more because when my body encounters
any kind of change, my skin freaks out. What I mean is that my skin responds to seasons, skin care products, diet, exercise,
everything!
So, I've had dry skin, oily skin, combination skin and normal skin all at different times and have switched up my face routine accordingly. However, once one problem (read: winter dry patches) was solved, it seemed like another was popping up (read: breakouts). That is, until I developed...
My Skincare Philosophy: Finding Balance
I feel so lame saying I have my own "philosophy" but his is the only regimen I've found that consistently works. Skincare is about balance. If you're experiencing excessive dryness, oil production or breakouts your skin is out of balance. It isn't about over-hydrating your skin to the point where you look shiny all day or drying out your skin until it starts peeling. Skincare is about reaching clear, balanced skin that stays clear and balanced day after day. To get balanced skin follow these three steps:
1. Diagnose: Figure out your skin type once and for all. The guide below breaks skin types down beyond just dry and oily so you can get the best custom routine possible.
2. Treat: Attack what's out of balance to bring harmony to skin! Clear the way for radiance day after day.
3. Maintain: Stay clear and balanced for life! Keep up your regimen, and whip out a few secret weapons if problems start to crop up again.
Skin Type Test and Skin Types
To diagnose your skin type, look in the mirror at the end of the day before you wash your face. Answer these questions:
1. Is there excess oil? Is this oil all over the face? Is it concentrated in certain areas?
2. Is there any peeling or flakiness? Does skin feel tight? Where is this concentrated?
3. Are blemishes visible? How many? A few? A lot? Do you usually have blemishes? Do they scar?
4. Does your skin react to new or harsh products? How? Rash? Breakout? Redness? Peeling?
5. Sagginess? Wrinkles? Sunspots?
Oily Skin | Oily skin is shiny all over. Other than excessive sebum (this is what the oil your skin produces is called), people with oily skin often experience blocked pores, black heads and pustules.
Combination Oily Skin | Excessive sebum in the "T Zone" (forehead, nose, around the mouth, chin). Breakouts usually occur in this area. Cheeks and jawline are usually normal to dry. Often times people with combination skin experience dandruff or excessive scalp oil.
Combination Dry Skin | The T Zone is normal, but cheeks feel tight or experience patches of peeling/roughness. Symptoms often worsen in the winter when air is dry. Hair is often brittle.
Dry Skin | Skin feels tight all over and is only eased with heavy moisturizers. Peeling, flakiness and rough patches may occur. Pre-mature wrinkles also may occur.
Acnaic Skin | Having acne and having acnaic skin are two different things, but often share some of the same symptoms. Skin can either be dry or oily, but there are consistent large breakouts everywhere. Scarring is usually an issue. If your skin is severely acnaic, see a dermatologist. If you experience some of these symptoms, treat them in conjunction with your primary skin type.
Reactive Sensitive Skin | Think "classic" sensitive skin. Easily gets rashes and break outs when using different products. Does not change oil/dryness level.
Seasonal/Environmental Sensitive Skin | (me!) Responds to seasonal, dietary, exercise and product changes. Oil/dryness levels change, breakouts may occur and flakiness is common in colder months.
Mature Skin | One word: wrinkles. Drooping skin that has lost radiance. Make up often collects in skin creases or wrinkles. Aging and sun spots common.
Normal | Lucky ducks! You have small pores, clear skin and no excess dryness or oil. This is what we aim for!
Treatment
So now that I've probably spelled out your greatest skin insecurities (sorry!), let's fix the problem. These are the essential steps to your skincare regimen. I will go into more detail after this outline:
1. Cleanse: Almost everyone should cleanse their skin twice a day. Remove make up before you cleanse (if your cleanser also removes make up like mine does, cleanse twice).
3. Treat: Use a serum or spot treatment to tackle problems.
4. Moisturize: EVERYONE should moisturize. I'm not kidding. No matter what kind of skin you have, moisturize.
5. Protect: Slather on that sunblock 365 days of the year!
** Bi-weekly deep clean & treat: Twice a week, give yourself a mini-facial with a peel/exfoliator, extractions and a masque that are geared toward your skin type.
Now, in depth descriptions of each step for every skin type and product recommendations:
Cleanse: I believe that every type of skin should use a gentle cleanser. Cleansers should
not target your problem. Cleansers for acne often dry out your skin which encourages more oil production to block pores and make problems worse. Cleansers for dry skin can clog pores with too much moisture and lead to milia (raised bumps on the skin from too rich moisturizer that are difficult to get rid of). Cleansers should simply cleanse, not treat. I recommend
Caudalie Instant Foaming Cleanser;
Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cleanser for all skin types- it also removes make up- (try the
oil free version for oily/combo oily skin); and minty fresh
Origins Checks and Balances (especially good for oily skin and use with Clairsonic). Tip for dry skin: If washing your face twice a day seems like too much, rinse with warm water and follow with the rest of your routine.
Treat: This is where things get interesting and a little more complicated. These treatments are targeted to your specific skin type. Let me break down treatment in bullet points:
Moisturize:
Sunblock
Weekly Treatments
Maintain
It takes 3 months to change your skin so with consistent treatment, your skin should be balanced by then! To maintain balance, continue your routine and amp up your anti-aging regimen so skin stays youthful and radiant for years to come. Use an under eye cream (I've been using one since I was 15!) to prevent tired eyes. My favorites are Clinique's All About Eyes Cream, DRUGSTORE and Kiehl's Rosa Arctica Eye. Also, lessen your daily treatments to every other day or 3 times per week. On nights you don't use these treatments, supplement with an overnight serum such as Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Serum or __________. Finally, be diligent about sunblock, even in the winter. The sun can really age skin. Pop some Vitamin D supplements to make sure you don't miss out on the sun stimulated hormone.
Even after balancing your skin, there will still be times when it isn't perfect. Rather than going out an buying a whole new line of skincare products, supplement with what you have. Too oily? Congested pores? Use a clay mask as a cleanser in the morning and night. Just work some onto your face with water, massage in and let sit for a minute (this isn't a treatment, just a cleanser!). Too dry? Lock in moisture by applying moisturizer directly out of the shower. Puffy under eyes? Pop your eye cream in the freezer for a refreshing treatment or place two cold spoons on your eyes in the morning to reduce swelling. Bottom line: changing your routine can change your skin and make problems worse. Working within the system by adjusting the amount of product you use or how you use it will bring your skin back in balance. And if things go from bad to worse? See a derm or re-evaluate your skin type. Skin changes with age. It isn't uncommon to go from oily combination to dry combination or normal to sensitive!
Good luck!
xoxo
